Journey of a 1000kms — Northeast India
A complete guide to explore Northeast India
Co-Author: Shikha Garg
How it all started?
“Singapore, Maldives, Mauritius, Bali, France….” Says every person of our age group (25–35), are the best destinations for couples. Usually, that’s what couples do, they try to go to a place which is picture perfect to complement their idea of a fairy tale marriage and KJo’s version of romance.
However, we, being the six-year-old-last-year couple, are not so much into clichés. Thinking to ourselves we want to do a trip which fills our appetite for fun, adventure, romance, site-seeing, relaxation etc. Rather than going to an insanely popular destination, we decided on taking the road less traveled.
The Plan
So many things to uncover in Northeast India which you can’t imagine. We have traveled to most of the places in India and suddenly planning for this journey started to look like a challenge to us.
Northeast India is a unique land which they call a Colosseum of seven sisters and one brother. Seven sisters being Assam, Arunachal Pradesh, Manipur, Meghalaya, Mizoram, Nagaland, Tripura and One Brother Sikkim. After our research, we came to know that while Manipur, Mizoram, Nagaland and Tripura are not politically safe to travel to and requires even more hard-to-get permits, Arunachal Pradesh tougher to reach and cover. We decided we’ll visit the rest of the 3 places.
Finally, we planned to start our journey in the month of January which is not a crowded time of the year for tourists in Northeast. Usually April-May month attracts most tourists.
Gangtok or Guwahati?? First stop?? Sikkim or Meghalaya?? Big Confusion. Sikkim has the most beautiful views and high altitudes to reach. On the other hand, Meghalaya has many places to visit and roads are safe. After some research and giving consideration to the number of days we have, we decided Guwahati should be our first stop.
We listed down all the popular unpopular places and put them in the increasing order of distance. This helped us manage our days well. This went on for weeks and we started booking hotels, cottages and travel (flights and car). Finally, planning phase was done and we were already so excited to take this journey on road. For self-drive car, Zoom car is available in Guwahati and is a good option.
The Travel
Day 1: Guwahati — Kamakhaya Temple — Kaziranga National Park
Distance: 246 kms
Time: 7 hrs
We reached Guwahati in the morning. As soon as you reach Guwahati, the airport itself gives you a sense of Northeast. The airport is filled with Statues and Posters. Be-aware of local taxi and autos, they tend to overcharge tourists. Zoom car (self drive) pickup location is just 1.5 km from the airport. If you are traveling light, you can either walk or take a toto. We booked a Ford Ecosport for our 4 days of travel. From there, we went to the world famous Kamakhya Temple. Its just 19 Km from the pick up location. The temple is beautiful and filled with devotees/pandits/shopkeepers. Whilst entering the temple, you are likely to by approached by a Pandit claiming he can provide you entry to the temple at a special price. The other option is to wait in general queue for darshan. In any case, be prepared to wait at least one and a half hour for darshan. We skipped the main temple darshan and rather visited nearby small temples. We left from Kamakhaya at around 1:00 PM towards Kaziranga National Park (Kohora village). The road to Kaziranga is smooth and driving was a pleasure. You will find lots of dhabas and restaurants on the way. I’d suggest you to stop and try Assamese thali. Kaziranga is spread across the forest plains and is known for the one horned Rhinos. we stayed at Green Reed hotel which is very near to the safari and It is advised to contact your hotel for elephant safari bookings. It costed us Rs. 900 per head for elephant safari through hotel plus Rs 100 service charge by hotel staff for arranging the safari tickets.
Key highlights: Driving, Kamakhya Temple, Kohora, NH27
Day 2: Kaziranga — Elephant Safari — Orchid Park — Cherrapunji
Distance: 330 km
Time: 9 hrs
Next day, at around 6:00 AM, we left hotel and reached to the safari location which was not more than 5 min of drive. Now, Elephant safari was a unique experience. Kaziranga forest has lots of water bodies en route. Elephant covers around 2 km of land next to the water bodies. The views are scenic and the fresh breeze just adds an amazing hue to the light. If you are lucky, you can see Rhino mom with babies. Bison, wild boars and deer can also be spotted during the safari. The safari continues for about 45 min. Post that we had breakfast in hotel and checked out. Next, We went toward a newly opened Orchid park and bought some kaziranga souvenirs on the way. To be honest, I am not very fond of parks. However, this was unique. Ticket price is Rs 130 per head. Absolutely gorgeous park filled with various types of orchids and other plants. We were greeted by people inside the park and they guided us through the park with a tour of Assam’s vast history and culture. They also organized folk dance every hour. They also have boating in a small pond inside the park. It will take at least one and a half hour to cover the park. At that point, we were thinking nothing can be better than this. With that in mind, we started our 325 km drive from Kohora to Sai Mika Road, Cherrapunji. To our surprise, the roads were just perfect and it got better when we crossed the border of Assam towards Meghalaya. The driving was pleasant with spectacular views throughout the hills of Meghalaya. Make sure you have lunch in Guwahati or nearby outskirts of Guwahati. We did not see a lot of eating places on the way. Not to mention, there are many coffee, snacks small shops at every curve. At about 8 PM, we reached Sai Mika Resort in Cherrapunji(highly recommended). It was cold…very cold outside. After this long drive, We couldn’t think of anything else but had dinner & slept.
Day 3: Cherrapunji — Dainthlen Falls — Masawa Falls — Seven Sisters Waterfall — Caves
Distance: 50 km
In Cherrapunji, I will highly recommend Sai Mika Resort to fellow travelers if you are looking for peace and want to relax away from hustling and bustling of city life. Staff are very friendly and in general, I would like to say people in Meghalaya are very helpful . The resort is gorgeous surrounded by hills and rivers. We booked a lake view cottage and had the best time seeing sunrise and sunset from the backyard which overlooks chain of mountains and a thin river flowing below. Post breakfast, We drove towards famous waterfalls in Meghalaya. I can’t emphasize more on how good the roads are in Meghalaya. Having seen a lot of waterfalls throughout my childhood, waterfalls in Meghalaya just looked fine to me…Those spots are more of picnic spots for locals. So, going there on weekends is not recommended (too much Traffic). We came back to the resort and had a peaceful night sipping drinks next to bonfire in front of our tent.
Day 4: Resort Trek — Checkout — Double Root Bridge — Dawki
Distance: 89 Kms
Time: 3.5 Hrs
Woke up to a warm morning which felt heavenly after such a cold night (heater/fireplace are provided in cottages). We sat down to meditate outside in fresh air for sometime and then went for a riverside trek and explored the forest around the resort. It was amazing. Sunlight falling on the Golden grass beside the river along with the cold reflection from the water made such a beautiful spectrum and left us in awe. Just so you know, Water bodies you’ll find in Meghalaya are usually cold only. so, Bathing and swimming in river is out of option. It was around ~2 hrs of trekking and we came back to hot breakfast, got ready and checked out at 12 noon. We drove towards the Double root bridge which is a very famous tourist spot in Cherrapunji. Now Here you will find lot of young tour guides asking for Rs 700–800 to show you the bridge. I suggest don’t hire them. Its just a root bridge and is deep down around and is about 2 kms walk to view the root bridge. There is a small lake below and good to sit around and relax after climbing down this flight of stairs. This was easy part actually. While climbing up, it really hit us hard. I won’t recommend it to be honest.
After that, We drove towards Dawki and had lunch on the way. It was again a beautiful drive. Awesome panoramic views. We stopped in between time to time to feel the fresh air and appreciate it. Now, Dawki is a small town located on the border between India and Bangladesh. There is a suspension bridge (also known as Dawki bridge) on the way, which is right above the Dawki river, and was built by British in the year 1932. On the other side, you can see Bangladesh people chilling near the Dawki river.
We pre-booked the camping package in Dawki online via pioneer adventure tours (highly recommended). Camp was in Shnongpdeng Village which is again 10 km from the Dawki bridge. Roads are lean and as Tamabil post is near from where Coal is supplied from India to Bangladesh, you’ll find lot of trucks on the way. We reached around 7 PM. We met a person from Pioneer and he took us to the camping site via a boat. Now this camping site is A.W.E.S.O.M.E. Its on the bank of Umngot river which has the clearest and very chilled water. So, I would say even the air felt different, more fresh I think. Luckily, it was not a peak time so, we were the only people on the camp other than the chef and other staff. It was a cold night. So, this guy (his name was Shining star, literally) started a bonfire and we sat down, enjoyed drinks under the stars and bonfire in front of us and slept peacefully later.
Day 5: Zip lining, Trekking — Tamabil post — Nohwet — Mawlynnong village — Guwahati
Distance: 230 Kms
Time: 7 Hrs
We woke up around 6 in the morning and it was really really cold and breezy. Sat near the river, Water was freezing cold and still as clear as mirror. Then we went for water sports and trekking. Had breakfast in the camp and then left for the Mawlynnong village. On the way, we stopped by Tamabil post and met some Bangladesh cops and took pictures.
Now, Mawlynnong village claims to be the cleanest village in India. So, It was naturally in our list. It was around 50 Km of drive to the village and on the way, we visited a small village called Nohwet which has tree house built by villagers and had a nice view on top overlooking chain of 7 mountains and a waterfall. After we reached Mawlynnong, we were quite shocked as its not even close to what they claim. Firstly, There are no direction boards and no one to help the tourists. Very confusing and disappointing. It might have been clean before I don’t know but now, at every corner they have built small home stays to give tourists a feel of village. (Definitely not recommended)
Then, We left for Guwahati, had lunch on the way and reached our hotel The Kalyaniz around 7 PM . I’ll recommend this hotel for overnight stay. Not very expensive and good service. We had dinner in hotel itself.
Day 6 : Guwahati — Airport — Bagdogra — Sikkim
In Morning, We relaxed, had breakfast in hotel, went out in market around the hotel and after lunch, drove to the airport. As the Zoom car center was near the airport, we dropped the car on the way and went to the airport, took flight from Guwahati to Gangtok. As soon as we reached Gangtok, Driver was already waiting to pick us up. Now, for Sikkim, We booked a package with Arun Travels(recommended). As we already told Arun we have lot of luggage, he got us Xylo. Next, we drove to Our hotel in Sikkim(Le primula). There was lot of traffic on the way till Siliguri. Later we had dinner at a dhaba on the way. Drive was a little bumpy. FYI The Roads in Sikkim are not as good as the roads in Meghalaya and Assam but it very high altitude, so, expecting anything more is just unrealistic. We reached the hotel and it was really cold. Normally hotels charge for heater on per night basis like Rs 200 or 300. But As we were on package and the hotel itself was owned by Arun, we got heater free of cost.
Day 7: Hotel Le primula — Chungthang — Lachung — Apple inn resort
Day 7 was dedicated to reaching Lachung and stay overnight. So, We had plenty of time to relax and have breakfast at the hotel. At 9:30 AM, We left for Lachung and bought their local brandy on the way. It was a 5 hour drive through mountains, got amazing views which you’ll never forget. First stop point was 7 sisters waterfall which they call as such because of the 7 bumps that thin waterfall has to face before touching the ground. Funny right?. Next is Chungthang, the holy valley. This valley has got really good views. mountains covered in white snow on the top. Looks so serene. spend sometime there. Almost when we were near to lachung, we saw Teesta river which flows parallel to the road to lachung and was right behind our inn there. Package included 2 nights and food in Apple inn resort in the main market location. We reached the hotel at 5 but it was looking like 7 or 8. Was freezing cold. Heaters didn’t help initially. It was so cold. So, We went out for a walk and did a small trek towards the river bank. Even the river water was freezing. 1 less degree and it would turn into ice. So, we were sitting near the river. Because of the cold freezing weather, there was no one around. It was only the sound of river flow. Glad we did that walk. Later at 8 PM, we had dinner at the resort, we were their only customers(lucky, we chose February to do this trip). Their Staff told us that In May this place is crowded like anything. Anyway, We loved the staff there, they were courteous, helpful and made excellent food in that ice cold area. Good we had brandy which helped us through the night.
Day 8: Yumthang valley —Katao— zero point — Apple inn resort — Le primula
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Next morning, We got to know that there was a snow fall a day back in yumthang valley and it might not be open to climb till the top. We didn’t come so far to stay at the resort. So, We told them to take us to the nearest possible point to yumthang valley. Luckily it was sunny day in Sikkim and We reached to the main gate. Our vehicles were not allowed to go further than the main gate there as it was prone to land slide during winter. So, we rented some snow shoes and enjoyed there itself. There were other tourist families clicking pictures, having brandy, maggi, momos etc. We spent an hour there and decided to see Katao as well even though it was not a part of our package. Now, Normally, packages are fixed but here the made it very flexible for us. Taking us to Katao was a compensation as we couldn’t go to the highest peak of Yumthang valley. Mt Katao was at 15000 km altitude and around 60 km from Yumthang. Its very near to the Tibet china border. I know I have been appreciating the views so far but If you take my word, I don’t think any view so far was like the top view from Katao. Heaven has to be like that. We were literally above clouds. Its like we crossed all the clouds in the world and finally attained that height. No matter where you go in Sikkim, there is one thing which you find everywhere and that's MOMOS!!. even at that height, there was a women selling momos.
It was a happy day followed by a zero point on the way and finally reached our hotel in lachung during lunch time. After lunch, we left for Le primula hotel in Gangtok. As the altitude was decreasing, it was getting comfortable again and one more thing, we faced network issues in Lachung. Only Airtel and Vodafone works in north Sikkim. We reached our hotel in evening.
Day 9: Changu/Tsomgo Lake —Nathula pass — Baba mandir — Sarathang lake
As it was winter season, It was highly unlikely for us to get the entry pass for Nathula pass(India-China border. Also, you can get this pass only on Wednesday. That’s why Arun(travel agent) chose day 4 in Sikkim for this.
Luckily, They got us the pass. We left in morning at 8AM. On the way stopped somewhere on Jawahar nehru road 2 km away from Tsomgo lake for to acclimatize. Around 10 AM, we reached to Changu/Tsomgo lake. Now, Changu and Tsomgo are two names for same lake which villagers say emerged overnight. Apparently it was a barren land before. In any case, this small lake is calm and quiet in its own completeness. At that time, it was already turning into ice. On the bank, we did yak ride. It costed us 600 bucks(though he initially asked for 900). Our Yaks had super cute names (Chitkule and Badal). It was fun for sure(highly recommended)
Then we drove towards Nathula pass, on the main gate, there was a check post of army men who ensures only Indian people with permit can enter(Do carry your ID cards and permit). Photography in Nathula pass is strictly prohibited. Again, there was a flight of stairs. Not many stairs. But As We were above 15k altitude, it became so hard to breathe and climb stairs simultaneously. On top, It was amazing. You can see the whole downward spiral road towards Changu lake and with mountains on sides. it made a properly synchronized image. We spoke with the army men there and they explained how the trading happens from here around may-jun when the pass opens and its summer time. We could even see Bhutan’s highest peak Chungi leheri from there which is around 24k above altitude (twice of Nathula pass).
From there we started driving towards our hotel. On the way we stopped at Sarathang Lake for boating (highly recommended). We reached our hotel in evening at 5. We relaxed and after getting freshen up, we left for MG road market. Its a tourist market, was very near to our hotel. This market is famous for their souvenirs and food joints. It had big central screens showing ads and videos. Most of the stuff was Chinese (trading with Chinese market happens through Katao and Nathula Pass, different timings and season) and we didn’t find it of good quality. We roamed around for 1 hour, bought gifts for family and friends. If you go there, must try Tibetan restaurant. They serve delicious momos and spring rolls.
The End
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